Bob Seger once wrote a very catchy song about riding on the back of a motorcycle (see title). The open road stretched out in front, the wind in your hair….it all sounds so idyllic. I hope that I appear to look something a la Christy Brinkley at the end of Billy Joel’s “Uptown Girl” music video (another classic), but in reality I know it is something quite different.
The motorbikes (“boda-bodas”) are cheap, dangerous, and most importantly fast. The traffic here is unreal and that is coming from an Angeleno which says a lot. Not only is the gridlock just as bad or worse than LA but its considerably more disorganized. And I won’t even get into the rain…
As someone who commutes to 3 different offices in/around Kampala, it did not take me long to face my fear. My first day at Grameen I made a promise to my local coordinator that I would not get on the back of a boda for at least one week which I promptly went out and broke the following day. Not only do they cut down on the travel time, they are a significantly cheaper alternative to private hires (taxi). A typical ride around Kampala will set you back around 5,000 UGX (or less than $2) …muzungu pricing I know but I get tired of haggling with multiple people on a daily basis. Sometimes you just have to know when to throw in the towel and enjoy the ride.
Are my hands scraped from gripping the seat too hard? Am I still completely terrified on a daily basis? absolutely.
Wilson was recommended to me by a friend and sits at the boda station outside MTN towers. Most people get the name and number of a few drivers they trust and then call them on a regular basis for rides. This is on my commute home yesterday through Nakasero at 3pm. It’s a far cry from the Commuter Express 438: Redondo Beach.
On top of the congestion and oncoming traffic, it is common practice for people to walk right out into the middle of the road in front of bodas, making the experience all the more harrowing. Apparently pedestrians here in Kampala have just as much of a death wish as New Yorkers.
I finally moved into a house in Mbuya which is near the homes of the UPDF. Below is a view coming down the main road on my way home…
Hunter S. Thompson said “faster, faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death”. I feel something of the opposite as I’d like to make it to my 30th birthday.
Mbuya neighborhood…
I’ve gone full hipster in Kampala. All I need is a huge bike lock for my fixie hanging off the messenger bag.
Aside from my death-defying commute…this is my life lately (work-wise at least) minus a cup of instant coffee. I can really only describe being a Kiva Fellow as drinking from a fire hose: totally overwhelming and just trying to retain as much as possible. Luckily I remembered my saving grace: headphones. So I can still keep Wolf Parade rolling while I pour over presentation slides and USAID proposals.
View today from Grameen’s office in MTN Towers.
The grassy area and helipad to the right is part of the Serena Hotel, not a park sadly.
After being here for one week I’ve had time to reflect on exactly what it is that I am doing. I saw this the other day and although a little cheesy, I like it.
I think this really is the heart of what Kiva is about, giving people the opportunity to realize more of their potential. Yesterday I was looking through intake forms for recent borrowers and among the hopes and dreams they listed were … education for my children, to be a better community member, and improve life for my family. Small loans through Kiva and its partner organizations do help people to reach these goals and I feel very lucky to be a small part.
Where The Streets Have No Name 